How to Choose the Right Suit: A Fit Guide for Bespoke Suits

If you are looking to get fitted for a bespoke men’s suit, you probably have high hopes for a result that feels like a second skin. This is a unique experience that you probably haven’t felt with any other clothing item before, and we want our fitting process to meet these expectations.

That being said, we don’t want you to stop thinking about fitting the moment you walk into our studio. The relationship between our suiting consultants and our clients is all about communication. We want to know what feels good or bad when you wear a suit, and we also want you to be able to explain why exactly your brand new Modello Suit feels so good.

Read on to learn about what goes into measuring and fitting for a bespoke men’s suit in Vancouver. Don’t worry - you don’t need to be a tailor to understand basic ideas of good fit.

What Does a Bespoke Fit Mean?

First, let’s revisit what separates a bespoke men’s suit from its close counterparts. We mentioned in our Made to Measure vs Bespoke blog post that bespoke suiting means fully custom - where every aspect of the suit is made to your specifications. This includes at least 35 measurements and a longer completion time of at least 5-6 weeks. 

Made to measure takes less time and requires fewer measurements since your suit is made based on an existing pattern. This works fine for men with “typical” body types, but doesn’t offer the same level of comfort and customization as bespoke.

A “custom suit” can be used to describe either of these options, so you should inquire about fitting techniques if you are looking into options from another seller.

Bespoke Suit Fitting Basics

Different bespoke suit fit styles, or “cuts” are often grouped based on different nationalities. Once you know the basics of these styles, you can confidently give your suiting consultant a general idea of how your suit will look. With this taken care of, you will be able to discuss other details with greater purpose.

American Suit Cut: Leaving a Little Extra Room

This is one of the easiest suit cuts for first-time buyers to recognize. The American “sack suit” features a boxy shape with little shoulder padding and a single vent on the rear of the jacket.

This cut gained popularity in the 20th century thanks to large-scale industrialization from companies like Brooks Brothers. This wider cut doesn’t mean you need to look shapeless (or like an aging politician), it can also mean that you will be more comfortable than a companion who prefers his suits with a trimmer cut.

If you prioritize ease of movement and the ability to layer underneath your jacket with sweaters and the like, then the American cut works for you. Just remember to talk with your suiting consultant about where exactly you want extra room, so that you won’t end up looking boxy everywhere.

British Suit Cut: From Savile Row With Love

This style is steeped in history like a cup of earl grey tea. Classic English suit style features double vents at the rear of the jacket (which interestingly enough, was better for riding horseback), tapered sides at the waist, and minimal padding in the shoulders.

A British cut slims the wearer, and trousers are cut with a high waist and middle-of-the-road width. The fit teaches us a lot about bespoke tailoring, since the slimmer fit is technically very hard to accomplish on a mass-market scale, unlike Brooks Brothers’ sack suits.

Asking for a British suit cut also means features like a ticket pocket (initially designed for train tickets) and heavier fabrics suited for the cold, rainy conditions of London. Thankfully, Vancouver rivals this climate like no other major world city. This cut conveys a classic, understated style without being too flashy - so it is ideal for many events.

Italian Cut: Suave Mediterranean Style

Many men might be able to list some qualities of Italian suit style off the top of their head, like a trim-fitting waist or heavily padded shoulders. This style is meant to show off your physique and attempts to create an inverted triangle shape.

Italian suits also feature lighter fabrics meant for the balmy climate where they are often worn. This compensates for the reduced mobility from a slimmer fit since an Italian fit simply wouldn’t feel comfortable in a heavy English tweed.

Italian suit style is often perceived as flamboyant and less formal, so they may be better suited to an outdoor wedding than a conservative business environment. But when you show up to the right event in an Italian cut, you will look like the most relaxed, fashion-conscious person there.

Finding the Right Bespoke Fit 

We mentioned earlier that a good bespoke  men’s suit is all about communication. Don’t be afraid to start a conversation with our suiting consultants about what fit you have in mind, and how you were inspired to decide.

For many men, film and television are a great reference point to unlocking the mystery surrounding different suit fits. Sure, you might not notice details from a businessman walking across the street, but the unmistakable cuts of Harvey Spector from Suits or James Bond stick around in your memory much longer.

But most importantly, don’t forget to mention your pain points. Being comfortable and confident is a fundamental part of a bespoke suit, and it is a big part of finding your unique fit and style. 

Get in touch with us today to book a fitting or consultation for a men’s suit in Vancouver and find out why our clients trust us to dress them for the biggest days of their lives - and everything in between.