How to Choose the Right Suit Colour

The process of finding the perfect colour for your next bespoke suit can seem daunting.

On one hand, you recently saw an NBA star rocking a sharp royal blue three-piece on TV and thought “I could definitely pull that off.” But your wife just told you that she thinks men with your skin colour look best in charcoal, plus it seems more appropriate in the office.

As trends come and go, it can feel harder to know what exactly is “timeless”, and which shades will be out of place in only a few years. At Modello Bespoke, part of our process is ensuring that your suit will make you feel confident for years to come. 

Read on for our guide to the best suit colours for work and play, and how to use contrast to your advantage.

When to Choose a Navy Blue Suit

Navy is considered one of our foundational suit colours. This means that it pulls its weight in business formal, casual, and events settings, so all men should have a dependable navy suit in their closet. 

Navy is a safe bet for men with all complexions and is commonly chosen as the best suit colour for weddings. It is also less seasonal, so it looks equally good in the summer sun as it does in cool, rainy winters. 

What a Charcoal Suit Says About You

Charcoal is one of the best suit colours for business and is especially useful for men with a paler complexion who want a darker suit. Black suits tend to overemphasize pale skin, so if you don’t plan on rocking a tan anytime soon, opt for charcoal instead.

Another way to make yourself appear less pale is to swap a white dress shirt for grey or blue, which reduces the overall contrast.

Seize the Day With Light Grey

Light grey suits are slightly less popular in the boardroom compared to navy and charcoal, but they are still very versatile. This is one of the best suit colours for blonde hair, blue-eyed men, especially for the summertime when lighter colours are encouraged. 

Want to mix it up a little? Try a dark navy or black shirt with your light grey suit. This has a tendency to bring focus to your face - so it works well if you just visited the barber or are seeing results from a new skincare regimen. 

The Classic Black Suit

As we mentioned above, black suits create a lot of contrast, especially if you have a lighter complexion. If you are looking for a black suit, it should be saved for galas and other formal events, not the office. Slim tailoring is much preferred here, as any billowing fabric will be accentuated by the crisp contrast of the fabric’s colour.

Black also requires an extra level of maintenance, so check out our article on suit care to learn how to keep your suit as clean-looking as possible.

One of the best suit colours for brown and darker-skinned men may be black, especially with the classic white shirt and black tie combo.

What A Brown Suit Signifies

Whether you are considering a linen suit in tan or a deeper brown that evokes a scene in the English countryside, this suit colour usually makes it seem like the wearer is off to take part in some form of leisure.

Brown suits were popular in business settings decades ago, but that ship has sailed. Dark and earthy brown suits are seen as approachable, so they are great for people-centric professions (think academics or doctors), and are well suited for the fall and winter months.

Light brown and tan are better for exceptionally warm days where you expect to spend time relaxing. Unless you live in a place where it is hot all of the time, these colours are a signifier of leisure, not business.

Avoid matching your skin tone to the shade of brown you select. Opt instead for a contrast that isn’t too sharp.

When to Go With a Burgundy Suit

A deep red suit is unique without being brash. It pairs well with greys and navy blues, and shines for a night out at a restaurant opening or attending a wedding.

Ensure that the hue of burgundy doesn’t match closely to your lips, and give it a try when you are looking for a safe bet outside of blues and greys.

What About Everything Else?

Every year a new colourful suiting trend takes hold. Canary yellow, deep purple, and muted teal all have had their day in the spotlight, and if you consider yourself a colourful personality, you may want to give one a try.

So how can you be sure that you can pull it off? Simple, ask our suiting professionals about what they have seen work in the past. 

Trying inventive colours can work if you have other pieces that match well, and we can make sure that you won’t show up to your next event rocking an unfortunate colour combination. 

Completing the Look

Several key themes cut across all types of suit colours we have discussed so far. If you discuss these with your suiting professional, you have a much better chance of finding the right suit for your purposes.

Contrast: Suit colours shouldn’t match or stand out directly against your skin tone. Read this guide on skin tone and clothing to find the perfect level of contrast.

Season: Some colours look out of place in the wrong month of the year. Take note of what you see people wearing on the street in your city

Colour Matching: Consider the shirts, ties, shoes, and other accessories that you own before going out on a limb with a new suit colour. You will need to balance it with complementary colours, otherwise it can throw off your entire look.

Looking for inspiration? Check out our Instagram account to see how Modello customers rock timeless classics and experimental shades.